GAZA AND WEST BANK FACT-FINDING MISSION

From Oct. 28-Nov. 7, I conducted a fact-finding mission in Israel, the West Bank, and Gaza, focussing on how U.S. taxpayer dollars are being spent to promote the Middle East peace process and Palestinian democracy.

I met with members of the Palestinian Legislative Council, including Nablus deputy Hussam Khader, who has been fiercely critical of Palestinian president Yasser Arafat and the corrupt government that has grown up around him.

Mr. Khader works out of a small office in the Balata refugee camp in Nablus, the largest city in the West Bank north of Jerusalem. He shares an office with the Yafa Cultural Center, an arts and cultural center that helps more than 170 disadvantaged children escape the squalor of refugee living through expressive art and theater.

Mr. Khader is also involved in social works on a very personal level. While we were meeting in his office, a young Palestinian man affected with Downs syndrome walked in and began talking to us in his broken Arabic. Mr. Khader took his hand, and sat him down with us, and listened, and corrected him as he mispronounced the word "Sheikh" (an honorific title).

If more of Arafat's men cared about their communities the way Hussam Khader cares about his, the U.S. would be privileged to contribute to building their democracies. Unfortunately, Mr. Khader is in a minority.

Down in Gaza, local Palestinians point to the huge palaces built by Yasser Arafat's wife, Suha, and by other regime officials such as Abu Mazen, and shake their heads in wonder. "Min ayna laqa haza?" (Roughly translated: Where did they get that?). As one Arab village leader complained, "when Arafat and his cronies arrived from Tunis they were so poor we had to give them bread. Today, they live in palaces and drive big cars. How?"

Arafat's security men are extremely prickly when it comes to this ostentatious show of wealth. Shortly after I took these pictures of the front and back of Suha Arafat's Palace

a group of palace guards attempted to seize my camera and arrest me. Only my Reader's Digest press card kept them from a much longer sojourn in Gaza that I might have liked.

Next door to the palaces, ordinary Palestinians still live with sandy streets, open sewers, and broken hospitals, despite more than $3.5 billion in foreign aid poured into Gaza and the West Bank since 1994. Only in the past year have any improvements really begun to show, as the paved road in this picture.

But my favorites of all are the children. Whenever I go to refugee camps, as I have been doing since 1982, I am always followed by groups of children, who are bursting with curiosity to find a foreigner strolling through their midst. This visit was no exception. So I thought I'd include a picture of my soccer team, from Hussam Khader's neighborhood in the Balata Refugee Camp in Nablus. Who knows, in a few years, one of them may play in the World Cup!

You can read more about my trip to Gaza and the West Bank in the Reader's Digest magazine, where my expose of Arafat's corruption will appear in the next few months.

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